Paris Revisited

Chapter One Shades of Chartreuse

The first time I set foot in Paris as a tourist, it didn't feel right. It felt as if I should be living there, as though I had come home. If I believed in reincarnation I would say I had been a Parisian in my past life. This is our second trip to Paris, and it is as magnificent and as splendid as the first.

We in fact, take two trips to Paris during this stay in France, a day on the way to Burgundy and two full days on the way back.The first trip is marred by jetlag and heat, with half a day spent sleeping. We feel wretched. We stay at Le Meridien, Montparnass, a tower-like monstrosity which reminds me of the London College of Printing at the Elephant and Castle. It is filled with a gaggle of rowdy British women, who invade the breakfast buffet, while we try and guess why they are there. Nearby is a shopping mall, and we spend our first day reveling in the electronic goods in the Darty store. Adam Gopnik is right about French appliances. They are striving to become more like phones, compact, brightly coloured and lots of blinking lights, where as American appliances strive to be like cars, bigger and built to hold more stuff. Unlike British appliances which are built to break at the first opportunity. I am enthralled by the colours, shades of chartreuse seems to be a popular colour this year. We walk the streets parallel to the Montparnass cemetery, shopping along the way and eventually ending up at the Belfort Lion. We stop at a cafe "Le Rendez Vous" to watch the world go by while we fill our bellys with Croque Monsieurs. The waiter seems unfamiliar with matches, in this part of Paris they seem to refer to them as feu. Fire! A wonderful day.

Chapter Two the Roses

The enchantment continues. We return from Burgundy to hole up at Hotel Renoir, again in Montparnass. A compact but bijou hotel, not quite boutique, but definitely full of character.

I am adamant we have to walk to St Germain des Pres, which we do and find the most unbelievable shops. A rainy afternoon and very atmospheric. A shoppers paradise of trendy wares, we walk and walk.. Kerry wants to visit les Jardins de Luxembourg which we do, but don't actually walk all the way through on the way back we find a flower shop, which sells roses. Le Nom du Rose. The fragrance is unbelievable. Two huge topiary arrangements stand outside the store, their mass of multicoloured roses are a sight to behold. I try to capture it all on film but I can't do the sight or the scent justice. Somewhere we stop for ice cream and then decide on a whirlwind trip to the Louvre. It's late in the day and we have a little more than an hour before closing. We tread the well worn path to the Mona Lisa which is smaller than I imagined but the smile is much more enigmatic, it seems to change.. I am reminded of the portrait if Dorian Gray. I am disappointed we don't get to see any Delacroix, a reason to return. Outside we see another French bulldog and I capture the moment of him meeting some children. I see an umbrella I want, with a scene of Paris, and I'm on the look out. We cross the Seine and look out at the river. More exploring St Germain this time antiques row. We shop for gifts and souvenirs before threading back to the hotel via the FNAC store so I can buy a book to read on the journey home.

Chapter Three I embrace my ideals - perfume and tea

We take the Metro to Printemps and Les Galleries Lafayette. In Printemps I have died and gone to retail heaven! We stop at the Mariage Frères boutique on the 5^th floor. There is a fascinating teapot on sale a camel and a man; it is too rich for my blood at $1000! There is a replica of it embossed into a tea caddy spoon, this I can afford!! I also buy some French Breakfast bags and some tea chocolates. We visit every floor and I try and take it all in. I want one of everything!

We leave Printemps and enjoy the street enjoy just as much. I find the umbrella!! But its a big one, reading my mind the lady minding the stall produces the compact size version. Its mine!! All mine!! We also pick up a Paris weekend suitcase for more of our souvenirs. We stop and enjoy the hurdy gurdy man, he has a dog and a cat in tiny bed with him and he feeds the pigeons, Im an easy sell. We walk to the Opera Garnier, I wonder if I can stop in am claim kin note to self: research history of the Opera Garnier, who was Garnier? Could I be a relation? Maybe that's why I feel at home here. We have lunch opposite the Madeline Theatre at a pavement café called Madeline 7. The sandwiches are so good..

We find a perfume museum on the map and then promptly find it on the street (passing by the Twinings store a mistake) It's above the Fragonard store and it absolutely beautiful. The fine delicate bottles, the distilling apparatus, its all wonderful. The fragrance from the downstairs store is sadly overpowering and we leave without buying anything. We both decide we would like to see the Pompidou Centre and take the Metro to the 1^st arrondissment. Its not as impressive as I imagined. The area about, however, is very arty and eclectic. We find a modern knick knack store and I buy card montages. My feet are starting to hurt and Im not focused so we pass by a modern Mexican chocolaterie I dont even take down the name (another mistake)!!! On the rue de Tiborg we find the Mariage Frères store, the pilgrimage is complete. We visit the tea room upstairs again as wonderful as the perfume museum. My feet really do hurt as I'm not focused and dont hear Kerry ask if I want tea. My list is building of things to do on our next trip.